If the shower is to be supplied direct from the mains supply a non-return valve must be fitted to the mains supply pipe, so shower water cannot siphon back into the cistern. The pipe work running from the shower to the hot and cold water supply will need to be recessed in a wall. The walls incorporated into your shower cubicle must be sound enough to have shower screen support channels fixed to them and be lined with ceramic tiles.
If building stud walls as part of the shower cubicle it is advisable to use moisture-check plasterboard or even cement-board , as both these materials are ideal for areas of high water usage.
Fitting a ceramic tray: Place it where it is to be installed and draw around the tray, also marking the position of the waste pipe on the floor. Remove the tray and using a jigsaw cut away a section of the floor big enough for the shower trap. Just outside your outline of the tray, remove another section of floor to give you an access point for the plumbing work.
Spread this over the tray area outlined on the floor and wait for it to dry. Mix up some mortar and spread the mortar over the tray area. Having screwed the trap to the waste outlet, bed the tray into the mortar ensuring it is firmly positioned and level. Allow the mortar to dry for at least 24 hours. Waterproof silicone sealant should then be applied along the edges of the shower tray where it meets the wall.
Fitting the shower Every shower will come with its own instructions, which you should follow. Every installation will vary according to the model of shower and its location but the basic plumbing method for fitting a manual mixer shower is as follows: Mark the desired positions of the showerhead and mixer unit on the wall of your cubicle. These can be either fitted flush to the wall or recessed.
If the mixer is set back in the wall, remember you will need to have a removable panel to gain access to the controls. The supply pipes can be set back into the wall then plastered and tiled over, but in this case the pipes must have a waterproof covering and be fitted with service valves, which must be accessible. As you route the pipe work from the shower to the hot and cold water pipes you will need to join lengths of pipe together.
There are several ways of joining lengths of pipe together see joining pipes , but the compression joint is one of the most simple and effective methods. If possible avoid using elbow joints at corners as these can affect the flow of the water. Instead bend the pipes using a pipe spring or pipe-bending tool. Connect the pipes to the controls and attach the showerhead. Turn on the water and check for leaks. To avoid standing water in the shower tray seeping back into the supply, the shower hose should be threaded through a retaining ring fixed to the wall of the shower cubicle.
Adding the shower screen Shower trays come in different shapes and sizes, so the number of panels making up the shower screen will depend on the type of shower tray you have bought. These are general tips: always follow the manufacturer's instructions. Taking one of the screen support channels place it vertically against the wall at the shower end of the tray and mark the position of the screw holes. Carefully drill pilot holes through the ceramics tiles see ceramic wall tiles.
Then plug the holes and screw the support channel in place. Fit the screen into the channel so that it rests on the rim of the shower tray. With the screws provided secure the screen through the side of the channel. Fix the second support channel vertically to the other wall. This channel will hold the frame in which the door to the shower cubicle will be fitted. The frame of the partition and the door will meet in a right angle at the corner of the shower tray.
Use the fixings supplied by the manufacturer to secure the two frames firmly in position. Following the manufacturer's instructions, fix the door into position ensuring that it opens and closes smoothly, in addition to providing a water tight barrier when shut. Finally, apply silicone sealant to all the joints between the framework, walls and shower tray. Related Videos. Tools Needed. How to fit a kitchen Solar water heating system Building a brick garden wall How to lay turf Demolishing interior walls Concrete crack repair Average cost of a door How to use a pipe bender Window repairs Continuity tester.
The simplest form of shower is the bath mixer shower, where a mixer tap is connected to a hose and shower attachment. A power shower uses a powerful electric pump to increase the rate of the water flow to the showerhead from the water cistern.
Supplied as a wall unit it uses an electric element to heat the water. A manual mixer shower is a wall unit where the hot and cold supplies feed a single valve. The position of the waste pipe and location of the water supply pipes. As mentioned already, you should always install your shower tray first and then tile down to it.
Due to the extremes in temperature in a bathroom and the resulting expansion and contraction, everything moves a fair bit. By tiling down to the tray and leave a mm gap between the tiles and the tray you can fully seal this with silicone and allow for any expansion and contraction as the silicone itself will absorb this and reduce the risks of any leaks. To leave a gap to enable tiling down to the tray we fixed a section of batten horizontally level across each wall around an inch above the tray and then tiled up the wall.
Once the tile adhesive had cured correctly the battens were removed leaving roughly a 2 inch gap that we could then tile once the ray was fully in place. For further help and advice on ceramic tiling, see our project here. Before placing the tray down in place, we first replaced the sections of flooring that had been removed that would sit under the shower tray. At the end of the tray we also created a trap door.
This was simply a section of flooring that could be easily unscrewed and removed so that we could access the waste. The tray was then laid on the floor and pushed back against both walls. Once in place, all levels were then checked to make sure the tray itself was totally flat and level.
If so, measure and note how far it needs to come off of any walls for the enclosure to sit correctly. Next, mark the floor area inside the tray waste so that you know exactly where you need to cut the hole for the waste.
Once marked, remove the tray and put it to one side and then cut out the waste hole. In this case we cut a 6 inch hole to allow the waste to sit nicely with a slight gap around it. A small channel was also cut at the front of the hole as the waste connection protruded out of the waste by a few inches.
The shower tray waste trap was then fixed in place on the tray. This was just a simple matter of unscrewing the top section, positioning the main cup section and seal under the tray and then screwing the top section and seal down.
It is highly important to fix the tray to the floor firmly and prevent any movement. If any movement occurs, even very slight, over time, not only will any sealing around the tray fail but it will also loosen the waste and cause leaks.
To fix your shower tray firmly to the floor, the best stuff to use is a strong construction adhesive. Clean the base thoroughly first to remove any grease and grime and then spread it evenly in beads over the base of the tray. Lay the base down on the floor and push it back in to position against the wall, ensuring the waste trap is sat nicely down in its hole and then allow the adhesive to cure for the manufacturers recommended time.
Once the tray has set and is fully secured, the waste can now be connected up. The compression joint screw cap was then tightened pinch tight to secure the waste pipe in place.
Advice on plastic compression wastes and how they go together can be seen in our project here. Before replacing any sections of floor a good idea is to test the waste and make sure there are no leaks.
Using a jug, fill the waste up and continue to pour water it a second helping had would be good here. With someone filling the waste for you, use a torch to inspect the waste trap and all the pipework for any signs of leaks. If there are any tighten any compressions joints as required. The first job is now seal up the gap between the shower tray and the wall. Using some suitable sanitary silicone, run a bead around both edges of the tray that butt up to the wall and then dampen your finger and use it to force the silicone down into the joint and then leave to cure.
Once the silicone has cured you can then fix in place the remaining tiles. Allow the tile adhesive to cure for at least 24 hours to ensure its gone off properly. Once the tile adhesive has cured, you can then get some grout in there. Tips on grouting can be found in our project here. Once the grout has cured you can then seal up the gap between the top of eth tray and the tiles.
Use a suitable silicone, in this case we used Everbuild Forever White as we find it to be really good. New ceramic tiles above a shower tray grouted and once cured gap between shower tray and tiles filled with silicone sealant. The final task once the internal sealing is done is to then seal the gap at the front between the shower tray and the floor. All project content written and produced by Mike Edwards , founder of DIY Doctor and industry expert in building technology.
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Blog DIY Competitions. Twitter Facebook Pin It Buffer. Project Page Menu. To find out how to fit both a raised or flat shower tray read on below. Should I install a raised or flat shower tray? As the tray was old, the adhesive was beginning to fail so after a little work it came away easily On first inspection of the walls it was apparent that many of the tiles had come loose also so all of these were also removed. Old shower tray and loose tiles removed With the tray removed it was also obvious that the floor was badly damaged, so this was also cut away and then damaged joists were also removed and replaced.
Water damaged bathroom floor removed exposing damaged joists With the tiles removed the wall was also inspected closely. Bathroom wall removed and wall timbers and floor joists replaced Once the timbers were replaced we then set about replacing the floor and section of wall that was removed.
Damaged sections of wall and floor replaced Check level of floor As we had to replace most of the floor area that the tray would be sitting on, this gave us the opportunity to ensure that the floor would be totally flat and level for the tray to sit on.
Checking level of existing floor for shower tray When checking levels you will need to check across at least 3 positions — diagonally as in the above image but also along the edges of each surrounding wall. Check existing waste and main drainage As we have mentioned installing a new shower tray with the waste in the same position as the old one should minimize potentially a great deal of work. So as we have said, keep it as simple as possible and try to keep wastes in the same position.
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